The Bay of Islands is a stunning piece of coastline north of Auckland and south of well, Kaitaia and Houhora. Chances are if you haven’t heard of Paihia, Russell or Urupukapuka you won’t have heard of the others either, so let me fill you in. And then those other places, we’ll get to them after.
Paihia and Russell are the two central towns of The Bay of Islands and the hub of the tourist trade. Kerikeri is then a larger town 20mins down the road and where we stayed the last time we visited the Bay of Islands. This region is called the Bay of Islands, for exactly the reason you’d imagine. A large coastal Bay, dotted with 140 stunning gems of islands, such as Motuarohia, Moturoa and my fave Urupukapuka, to name but a few.
It’s not only a natural stopping off point for travellers heading north, but it’s the hub of sight-seeing adventures and a party spot for international backpackers…and Aucklanders. There’s good food and loads of water-based fun to be had. Whether it’s paragliding, swimming with the dolphins, jet boating, game fishing or jumping on board a ferry to the Hole in the Rock, you can keep pretty busy here for a good couple of days in the Summer and one, maybe two in the winter.
Where to Stay in The Bay of Islands
There’s plenty of hotel, motel, Holiday Inn options in Paihia. We’ve stayed a couple of times at a Dolphin Motel, because it’s cheap, close to town and has a couple of big rooms for when we’ve holidayed with friends. But, last time we were in this part of the world, we ventured to Kerikeri to stay at Avalon Resort and suggest you do the same.
Avalon Resort is a unique property, situated on a rural site, beautifully landscaped to create a tropical oasis. The property is dotted with natural springs, including their swimming pool, which is in fact a natural spring too. We stayed in one of the cottages for the night, it’s the type of place that you could stay for much longer, given the way it’s been set up. We also enjoyed the pet pig, the chickens and of course, Daisy, the goat who they just can’t keep fenced in. It’s serene, it’s relaxing and it’s surprisingly easy walking distance to town.
All the things to do in The Bay of Islands
Urupukapuka Island
#1 has to be, hire a water taxi and spend the day (or half a day) over at Urupukapuka Island. Take a walk, sit on the beach, stare into the clear waters and make sure you’ve packed a lunch or that the onsite cafe is open when you visit. Explore also sails daily from Paihia from December to April. Check them out if you don’t have a group to split the taxi bill with.
Another island I also recommend checking out is Motuarohia or Roberton Island. You can get a ferry here too. It’s got a couple of stunning lagoons and a beach to behold. You’ll want to make sure you take a waterproof camera, something I didn’t have in about ’92 when I was lucky enough to visit. Although out of date, my memories can be backed up by the stunning photos you’ll see on insta.
Waitangi Treaty Grounds
Go back to where it all started and visit Waitangi. Probably one of, if not the most significant landmarks in our history, the site where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed between the Maori and European back in 1840. A NZ’er can get in for $25, while it’s pricier for our overseas friends, who are charged $50 for the pleasure. I’m not so sure I’m keen on the price tag, but if you’re a kiwi you probably don’t have an excuse for never visiting. There’s cultural performances to see, beautiful grounds to explore, a museum to wander through and beautiful views of the bay to stare out to.
Kayak the falls
Last time we visited, we hired a double kayak from Coastal Kayakers and paddled the couple of km up stream to the Haruru Falls. The day we visited, was the day after a storm and the water was the colour of something that rhymes with loo. But, on any other day I would imagine this to be quite stunning. The falls itself aren’t exactly Niagara, but they’re still worth checking out. Alternatively, you can visit by car on the long way back to town from Waitangi.
Take the ferry to Russell
Russell is a town, about as old as New Zealand itself (so not that old), but one of the first European settlements, primarily a shore station for shipping. Once ‘unruly and lawless’, it’s now about the opposite, with quaint buildings, quiet museums and a fine dining institution, in the way of the Duke of Marlborough. It’s worth a wander around, made easy by the car ferry from Opua to Okiato, or take the frequent passenger ferry from Paihia (recommended), which takes around 15 minutes. If you want some exercise, walk up flagpole hill, or drive. The views are good.
Eat all the food
Charlotte’s Kitchen is hands down the best meal we’ve had in this part of the world. It’s at the end of the wharf in Paihia, and been there for a couple of years. We were recommended the seafood by a local and it didn’t disappoint. We ordered an array of dishes including Frutti di Mare and the Spicy Calamari, plus a couple of good looking drinks to wash it all down. Loved the laid back, but knowledgeable service we had. Our waiter made us feel right at home, and what a home, on the edge of the pier at Paihia, with great views out to sea. It also doesn’t have a bad name, if I should say so myself. 
We also recommend Cafe Jerusalem in Kerikeri, apparently ‘World famous’ in this part of the globe. We ordered a Mezze platter, which had all the things.
Or, if you’re looking for something on the go, check out the Bay of Islands Farmers Market, which sets up home in Paihia on a Saturday morning, and Kerikeri on a Sunday morning. There’s freshly made food to buy, beautiful coffee from Ikarus Coffee Roasters to try and some good lookin’ avos for ridiculously cheap. It’s also perfect spot for a breakfast when you’re about to leave town, and head on home. 
If you’re still wondering about Hohoura and Kaitaia, they’re small towns you’ll find on your way up very north. But the North Island of New Zealand has so many more beautiful places to check out. If you haven’t been to Coromandel Peninsula, you should read this guide and add it to your list.